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In Zagreb and the northern coastal areas some foreign newspapers arrive on the cover date, elsewhere they are late. Chapter 2. Samobor is 25km west of Zagreb, Croatia. The town has 2. A train link will be reconnected to Samobor in The prevailing architecture is that of the Baroque period. Samobor is a short 20 minute drive from the Zagreb city 2. Take the A3 towards the Slovenian border. Buses leave Ljubljana, Slovenia approximately every 15 minutes from rnomerec termi- nal and every 30 minutes from Autobusni kolodvor main bus station and Ljubljanica terminal.

Central Croatia is the north-central region of Croatia, 3. See the site for the website. Karlovac is a city in the northwest Croatia, 45 km southwest of Zagreb with a population of approximately 60, Almost everyone knows Karlovac as the city on four rivers. In fact, only three ow through the very city and the fourth, the river Dobra, is a bit on the outskirts - Dobra. Of course, natives will talk about the fth river the one made of beer. Dubovac Castle The town plan is unique as the historic town center is in the shape of a 6-point star and was constructed in the 16th Old Town Dubovac: a fort from the 15th century, century as a fortication against the invading Turks dou- situated on one of the nearest hills.

Not many activ- ble of the back cush pink centre pocket. Great view of the city. In summer some performances can be seen up 4. In summer river banks are turning into shy beaches and are great for whole day activities. Buses and trains depart frequently from Zagreb 50 min- utes 4.

Lots of preserved trails all around the city from Jadranski Bridge. Great swimming in summer months in Karlovac rivers Korana and 4. The best way to get around is by bicycle. Annual 4. The most crowded place at that time of summer, with various folks around. You can grab There are a few museums and a fortress on Dubovac hill a beer and pretzel and see if theres a music which with great views of the town.

Karlovac Check-in: after pm, It consists of piano lessons and master classes check-out: before am. Reception: 8am- with renowned piano pedagogues, concerts and 10pm, Monday-Sunday. Newly opened August International Piano Competition. Hotel Korana Srakovcic. Directly on a lake. Karlovac is the home of Croatias most famous brewery, Karlovako, which is a must try. As in the case with most of Croatia, rooms are available in private houses. Chapter 5. Krapina is a city in Central Croatia.

Krapina is a very small town and you can see all the sights on foot. If you arrived by car you will have to pay for parking in the city. It is administrative centre of Krapinsko-zagorska county located approximately 55 km from Zagreb, Croa- tias capital. The city is rst mentioned in but has Reconstruction of the Neanderthal family at Hunjak hill even longer history. You will travel to Earths history.

Here you can nd out all about the anatomy, cul- ture and the environment of the Neanderthal. The mu- By train a railway connects Krapina and Zagreb. The seum is located in situ, in other words, on the prehistoric train ride takes from 1h 30 min up to 2 h depending on the habitat. You will learn all about Dr. Kramberger, the train category, half a dozen trains daily, most requiring a man behind the epochal discovery. The museum has all change of train in Zabok.

The price is 40 kn ca 5 one sorts of multimedia content so its a great place to visit way with your family your kids will love every minute. By bus the bus leaves from Autobusni kolodvor Zagreb and the ride takes about 1h. It will cost you ca 50 kn ca 7 5. Nearest hotels are in Krapinske Toplice, 15 km from Krapina. Krapinske Toplice is city the northwest Croatia, 45 km 6. Water Park Aquae Vivae: new, the biggest water park on over Kraneamus Krapina Neanderthal Museum: The 6.

Size of m2, uated in a quiet and beautiful valley surrounded by pic- this is one of the most modern museums in Croa- turesque hills of Croatian Zagorje. Croatian Zagorje is tia and this part of Europe. You can expect an in- settled in the north-west part of Croatia and belongs to teresting story about life and culture of the Nean- the middle part of Croatia.

The region of Zagorje is derthal man in Krapina, numerous multimedia con- well known for its forests, springs and culinary delica- tents and above all a unique architecture. Museum cies. Zagorje is best known for one of the most signicant is connected with the original founding site of the world localities of Neanderthals, Hunjakovo, where Neanderthal man, on the Hunjakovo hill.

Museum The Old Village, Kumrovec: open air Zagorje treasures numerous of historical stories and folk museum situated in Kumrovec, 15 km from Krap- legends but most of all has many thermal springs which inske Toplice in which there are presented crafts are known since the time when the Roman armies ruled and traditions of Croatian Zagorje between 19th and this territory. The permanent exhibition of ethno- Krapinske Toplice has 6th best thermal water in Europe.

Castle Veliki Tabor: near Desini - 20 km from Krapinske Toplice - The rst tower was built in the 12th century, other towers were built in the 15th and 6. Most notable owners and inhabitants were the Celjski and the Ratkaj counts and the great Croatian 6. Special feature of the castle is a big well which is 31 meter deep and the big rustic There are hourly or even half-hourly buses from Zagreb hall with halberds. UNESCO rated the castle in the throughout most of the day, the journey takes 50 minutes highest category of monuments.

Today castle is a and costs between 40 and 50 kuna. Trakoan Castle: near Macelj, 35 km from Krap- inske Toplice - Built in the 13th century and has changed several owners. Through centuries, among 6. A trip by car on the motorway takes only about 10 min- Sub-marshal Juraj V. Drakovi renewed the castle utes from exit Zabok, or 35 minutes from exit in Zagreb. Today the castle belongs to the Republic of Croatia and its a museum with permanent collection.

In addition to the numerous train services operate each day to Zagreb in- cluding the new, high-speed tilt train which completes the journey in around 35 min , there are services to Novska and Rijeka. The Croatian Railways website has informa- tion on train times and tickets.

The railway station is be- Sisak is a very important industrial and cultural city city ing renovated and modernised. Before the war there was in Croatia. Its on three rivers: the Sava, Kupa and Odra. Sisak has about line was destroyed during the war. SEE Highway A11, which is under construction, passes from century, within the walls remains horreum - barns, Zagreb to Sisak and will in the future be extended to the built in the early 4th century. Driving to Sisak is easy with good signposting from all directions, and there is on-street as well as lot parking in the town.

You can see a lot of bikes paths in the center of city, you can easily use it. Siscia in Situ Taxis serve the whole city and have colours of city, green and blue. Old Bridge Stari most , the rst wooden bridge on the Kupa River was built in , merged the Civil and Military Sisak left and right banks of the river Kupa.

In built the brick bridge, which be- comes one of the symbols of the city, and the locals call it the Old Bridge. This bridge is built from tra- ditional materials Sisak, stone and brick. Sisak historic ring, next to the building of Mali Kaptol is set Sisak historic ring. Seven showcases, which are located below the oor level, presented the seven most important period multy-century his- Inside of Fortress tory of the city of Sisak.

Promenade Slavo Striegl, the promenade is the Old Fortress, the old town is a fortress from the heart of the city, a place to hang out, talk, here you 16th century. Under which took place the Battle of can refresh yourself in one of the many cafes and Sisak on June 22nd The fort is a heritage site. In the 18th century here From the Old Town to the city of Sisak is approxi- were located port facilities.

A walk will encounter a mately two kilometers by road or mile promenade. It is a Siscia in Situ, the archeological park Siscia '' in situ modernized river trac and replace manpower. The '' - the remains of Roman architecture.

Southwest- combination of river and rail transport determine the ern walls with tower from the late 2nd - early 3rd development of the city in the 20th century. Since , the seat of the Diocese of Sisak. House Lieberman, house with a beautiful wrought iron is House Lieberman. It was built in and was owned Sisak dealer Lieberman. It is the old- est Sisak Jewish family that moved to the city in the early 19th century.

His fortune and reputation ac- quired in the trade with grain. Mali Kaptol tian and attracts people from various parts of the away from the Old Bridge about meters. Habsburg Monarchy. The rst Jews in Sisak come as merchants. Very fast becoming an important fac- tor of economic development of the city and the syn- agogue was built between and , their spir- itual center.

After World War II the synagogue was converted into a music school, which until now ex- ists in this area. All along the left bank of the Kupa, on which the town centre abuts, between two bridges of Sisak, thousands of people get together to proudly revise a great history lesson in the open, on the river which has always meant life for the town of Sisak.

In the glow of spotlights, walking with heroes, athletes, and leaders, with rich cultural and gastronomic of- fer, with playful laugh of a happy child The present church was built in the rst half hero. Characters from books and legends, in their of the 18th century. On 05 December , Pope costumes and very special, precious possession of Benedict XVI, again founded Sisak Diocese under memory of the town of Sisak, in the light of the can- Bishop Vlado Kosic, and their former parish church dles tell the Celtic Night, that, what we are going of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross declared the to leave to the coming generations: glorious history cathedral.

The old town fortication, the central ment. Due to the frequent Ottoman raids, the town cient Croatian capital. Varadin is located on the right was structured defensively around the old fortress, thus bank of the Drava river in north-western Croatia, 79 km acquiring the shape of a typical medieval Wasserburg. As early as the 13th century the Knights Hospitaller in Croatian Ivanovci came to Varadin, where they built a church and a monastery.

At the end of the 14th century the Varadin fortress passed into the hands of the Earls of Celje. Over the fol- lowing centuries Varadin had several owners, the most inuential being Beatrice Frankopan, Margrave Juraj of Brandenburg, who built the town hall; the last was Baron Ivan Ungnad, who reinforced the existing fortication. When at the end of the 16th century Count Toma Baka Erddy became its owner, assuming the hereditary posi- tion of Varadin prefect upan , the fortress remained in the ownership of his family until With the arrival of the Jesuits, the school and the convent were founded.

Furthermore, a number of churches and monasteries were built in the baroque style. As Varadin was the seat of many Croatian noblemen in it became the administrative center of Croatia. However, when the great re of destroyed most of the town, administrative institutions moved back to Zagreb.

By the 19th century Varadin had been completely re- built and expanded. Crafts and commerce, and later the manufacture of silk and bricks ourished resulting in the creation of the towns theatre, music school, and re de- partment. Stari grad - Old City. The rst written reference to Varadin dates back to , when the nearby thermal springs Varadinske.

Buses are very frequent from Zagreb and take around 90 minutes - check the timetables or the Zagreb Bus Sta- tions website for times. Services into the neighbouring areas are quite frequent, some going over the border into Hungary. Buses also leave from other major Croatian cities almost daily for Varadin. Online information for buses to Varadin can be found at the Varadin Transit website. International departures especially for Austria, Germany, Hungary and beyond often make a stop in the town, and if there is a later bus that day, companies normally honour a 'break of journey' to visit the town for a few hours.

Note in Varadin that the bus station is located on the Gallery of Old and Contemporary Masters - Sermage Palace western side of town, and the railway station is located on the eastern side, with a distance of around 2km between. Although its construction began in the 14th 8. In it was turned into Gradski cross into Croatia. Which houses paintings, furniture, weapons and decorative objects important Travellers coming from Nagykanizsa or Budapest should for the Varadins history. In , it was the rst use the A4 motorway once they enter Croatia which con- Croatian museum nominated for the European Mu- nects Varadin with the Hungarian border.

PM; Closed on Mondays. Is hosted in the rococo- The most scenic and cheapest but slowest way to get to style Sermage Palace built in and donated to Varadin from Zagreb is a local train 2h20 stopping at the museum by the City of akovec in The every station between the two cities. The price of a return gallerys holdings include over 3, pieces. Many ticket is 80kn roughly 10 euros , with discounts for ISIC old masters works served as the basis of todays card holders.

Recently, the speed of the journey dramati- permanent collection displaying 61 paintings from cally improved with the addition of a faster though more the 15th to the end of the 19th century. The most expensive alternative of the high-speed tilting train con- valuable pieces are those by Dutch masters from the nection operated by Hrvatske eljeznice Croatian rail- 17th and 18th centuries as well as the portraits by ways.

Moses, M. Brodnik and M. The gallery also holds works Train services also operate north to akovec and Ko- by the famous Croatian contemporary masters: V. Babi, R. Frange-Mihanovi, as well Hungary , and there is a daily service to Split and to as by a number of local painters and sculptors from Budapest in Hungary. Hrvatsko zagorje and Meimurje. Particularly valu- As of May , the train station in Varadin was closed able are the collections of Miljenko Stani's and Ivo for renovations. Trains still ran, but timetable information Reeks works Tuesdays - Fridays: 10 AM - 5 PM; and tickets needed to be purchased elsewhere.

Vienna is across the road The rst collection was estab- lished by Franjo pl. Koec , the local 8. He donated his large natural scientic collections to the City of Varadin in His work was, in the Hotel Turist Aleja kralja Zvonimira 1, period, continued by his daughter Ruica Koec. A 3-star ho- Since some 50, specimens have been col- tel with 46 single rooms, 58 twin rooms and 5 suites lected. The collection also includes enlarged models of total capacity of some beds.

The suites and of certain insect species. A 3-star hotel located of thousand specimens, bring testimony of natural outside Varadin. It has 26 double rooms and 2 properties and environmental changes, thus consti- suites. Has 10 rooms with 8. The website is in Croatian. There are numerous nice souvenirs for you to buy in Varadin. It is best to buy them from hard working ar- tisans that have their own corner in Varadin.

The most 8. Owner of a small stand full of handcrafted hats has a nickname Herc and Varadinske Toplice Varadin Thermal Spa is its one of the most recognized man in town. Next to him located 12km to the south-east of Varadin. The is a hard working Blacksmith who crafts lovely souvenirs famous spa renowned for its warm sulphuric wa- and next to him is a Tailor with tons of souvenir clothing.

These days it is a destination with a range of modern indoor and outdoor pools. Varadinske 8. The ride takes around half an hour. Decent lunch can be found in Zlatne ruke Golden hands. Best place for pizza and pasta is Angelus, across the street Trakoscan Castle is a stunning 12th-century forti- from the city park. One can nd delicious pizza in Re- ed castle and one of the few from that period that bus, about 10 km in Kuan dirfections have to be added.

A major reconstruction Zvonimir restaurant provides great pizzas and there are was undertaken in early 19th century giving it a dis- many restaurants outside of Varazdin such as Cesljas on tinct neo-gothic look. It can be reached by bus from Varazdin breg. McDonalds is i Vrazova street. Next to Varadin the bus fare costs 25KN. The best kebap can be found in Zagtrebaka, 50 m south of the post of- Nagykanizsa in Hungary and Graz in Austria are ce, and Gajeva street same oweners.

One can get pizza also just a short distance away. There are numerous caes in the centre. Main stream alternatives can have a good time in Lavra. Vrbovec is in Zagreb county, Croatia, 32km northeast of Castle of Patai. The town has a population of 14,, as of the census.

Castle of Lovreina Grad. Church of Saint Vitus. A member of third division tian life, Vrbovec oers peaceful staying and feeling like of the Croatian Soccer League. June Traditional festival of cooking of old specialities from the past 9. Well connected by the A4 highway, then by D28 express- 9.

It takes minutes by train from main train station in 9. The city boasts a charm- ing medieval 'old city' with architecture and cobbled Austrian operates many ights to Vienna each day. In it was vis- times a week Wednesdays, Fridays, Sundays via ited by over half a million tourists, mainly from Austria, Bologna in Italy.

Germany and Italy. Iberia operates ights to Madrid from Summer Mo-Fr ; Sa-Su Other information points are located at the airport, bus yDubai ies to Dubai. KLM ies to Amsterdam. Air Serbia ies to Belgrade.

GET IN Qatar Airlines ies to Doha. A journey TradeAir ies to Osijek, Rijeka. Single 30 Kn; Return on Vueling ies to Barcelona seasonal. AirFrance ies to Paris. Numerous Croatian and International Emirates coach operators maintain scheduled lines covering all major domestic and European cities. Neighboring airports in Rijeka, Ljubljana, Graz, Left luggage at the arrival terminal Klagenfurt and Trieste are serviced by low-cost carriers For baggage up to 15 Kg: 5 Kn per piece per hour and are often a viable alternative to travelling directly to up to 4 hour, afterwards 2.

Restaurant, cafe, bars 1 Zagreb Glavni kolodvor Main railway station close to the main bus terminal. There are direct Post services to major European cities such as Vienna 6 hours , Budapest 6. There is also an all-year-round Numerous car renting outlets overnight train with sleeping compartments be- Open 24 hours with 6 cots on the upper level outside tween Zagreb and Split 6 hours. Trains are not everywhere city look for Croatia Airlines and Eurolines fast in the country.

A journey to Split takes approx. Buses leave destinations along the coast practically are not reachable the airport at and every 30 minutes between by train. Beyond these hours, there are Tourists coming from or going to neighbouring capitals buses leaving for the bus station every time a Croa- should note the following EuroCity and InterCity as well tia Airlines plane lands. Those travelling from Italy can bypass the expensive mo- torway toll in Slovenia by using the state route SS21 through Trieste, route E61 through Slovenia in a bad shape and then A7 south to Rijeka, then Rijeka bypass, then A6 east to Bosiljevo and A1 northeast to Zagreb.

Travellers heading from the south - Dalmatian coast Zadar, Split, Dubrovnik, To use highways in Croatia you must pay a toll either in Croatian national currency, the Kuna, or in Euro. You can nd a toll calculator here EuroNight train click Calculator on the left navigation bar. IC Kvarner": Budapest - Zagreb.

The most of the services are operated by the Croatian Railways. Travellers from Vienna can pass by Graz and Maribor and then take the A2 highway upon entering Croatia. Mind Zagreb Tram the toll in Slovenia. Travellers from Budapest can pass by Szkesfehrvr and then use the Croatian A4 motorway.

It also connects Varadin. You will have to pay toll from shortly after entering Croatia until shortly before reaching Zagreb. Travellers heading from Ljubljana can use the A3. ZET buses cover the area outside the city center, as well as some neighboring towns that administratively belong to Zagreb county.

The buses use the same ticketing system as the trams. The funicular operates every 10 minutes, for a fee of 20 kn in addition to regular tickets for everyone on board an immediate start can be purchased. They are usually the quickest form of transport for those coming from the areas of Zagreb far from the railway sta- tion Glavni kolodvor , or beyond the tram network. The dierent prices when buy- ing at the driver or the kiosk or using the electronic ticket E-vrijednosna karta have been removed.

The ticket can only be paid in the local currency Kuna. Buy a ticket and stamp it insert it in the little or- Tari zone system exists, from 4AM to 12AM there are 15 day-time lines tram but only for townships and communities outside of Za- lines , and 17 , and from 12AM to 4AM there greb city limits, all trams are in zone 1, as well as buses are 4 night lines tram lines which cover most ofin the City of Zagreb.

If you plan on taking more than the day-time lines on a reduced around minute two rides, buy a daily ticket. Occasionally, buses replace trams on night lines. Tram lines 1, 3, and 8 do not operate Saturdays, Sundays and on public holidays.

There are maps of the This area is also rants, shops, and service providers and many other con- the home of Zagrebs major museums, galleries and the- cessions. As of September , it costs 60 kuna ap- atres. The upper town Gornji Grad can also be covered prox. Holders dral, St. Marks Church and Square and the Museum of of the card also receive a special booklet with a list of all Broken Relationship.

The card can be purchased at any of Zagrebs Tourist In- formation Centers, at the reception desks of the majority There are three taxi companies in Zagreb:. Radio Taxi Zagreb phone: Starting rates It started with a three-month ditional fee for luggage is charged 3 kn per piece pilot period during which approx. Taxis are readily able at 6 stations in the city centre: at the main train sta- available at the Pleso international airport.

Taxis are tion; in front of the Technical Museum at Savska Street; obliged to have their taxi-meter on and you won't at the intersection of Petrinjska and Amrueva; at the fare well if you try to bargain. The pilot was suc- 15 about 2 and includes 2 free kilometres. The cessful, three more stations have already been added, one price for every next kilometre is 5 HRK 0,7. Payment can only be made with credit or debit cards Ekotaxi phone: 77 Start 8.

As of September These are where most of the restaurants, to a total of 24 hours. Warning: If a bike is not returned bars and tourist sights are located. Even here tion of historic Zagreb. A customer card to the railway station and the Sava River. North - South and East - West. The Northern part con- sists of the mountains and wilderness while the Southern part extends beyond the River Sava and cosists of modern So Zagreb can be classied under four areas: Zagreb is a compact city and can be best explored by walking.

The original cathedral dates back to but the present structure dates back to The chief architect was Hermann Boll. Marks Square Crkva sv. Marka St. Marks Square. Located at the centre of St. Marks Square, St. Marks Church is known for its colourful roof tiles depicting the coat of arms of Croatia and Za- St. Marks Church greb. Marks Church was constructed in Catherines Church Crkva sv.

Katarine , St. Please Churches and Religious Structures: be silent, even if just passing through the Gate. The portrait of Mary is said to be sacred, because it is 1 Zagreb Cathedral Kaptol. The Zagreb Cathe- the only thing that survived the large re. Near the dral with its twin spires is the most well known land- Old Town Gate is the sculpture of St. Pavilion at Botanical Garden. The other statue, him ghting the with exotic plants, sculptures, and a childrens play- dragon, is located on the Marshal Titos Square near ground.

The park was originally the site of Bishops the Croatian National Theatre roughly 1 km away. Entrance to Mirogoj cemetery Museum of Contemporary Art. Admission fee: 25kn. Bus prekinutih veza , Sv. Tue-Fri , Mon from June till September. What remains after a and holidays closed. This gallery in the old Je- break-up? Museums permanent display is an op- suit monastery with changing exhibitions introduces portunity to experience a unique emotional journey Croatian and foreign cultural and artistic heritage through dozens of love leftovers collected from all across all eras.

In most exhibitions, photography around the world. Museum is also the winner of without ash is permitted. The central square of the western wing of Lenuci Horseshoe. It is named after Croatian poet Ivan Maurani. It houses the Croatia State Archive. It also has a statue of Marko Maruli. One of the largest and greenest squares of Zagreb.

It has the Croatian National Theatre in its centre. Houses some 3, works of art donated by Ante Topi Mimara. The collection comprises more than 1, exhibits dating from the prehistoric period up to the 20th century. The holdings include evidence of Croatian presence in this area as well as rare samples 1 King Tomislav Square Trg kralja Tomislava which have made the museum known to the whole south of Zrinjevac, just outside the main Train Sta- world.

The most famous are the Egyptian collec- tion. King Tomislav Square is the square over- tion, the Zagreb mummy and bandages with the old- looking the main railway station Glavni Kolodvor est Etruscan inscription in the world Liber Linteus of Zagreb. Decorated with oor beds and foun- Zagrabiensis , as well as the numismatic collection. Mer- , e-mail: info umjetnicki-paviljon.

Designed by the Hungarian architects Korb passing a dozen or so meters. Venus is on the pole and Giergl for the Millennium Exhibition in of the building with Hypo bank on the Ban Jelai Budepest, its iron frame was transported to Zagreb Square. Earth is in Varavska street to the left. For after the exhibition, where the permanent pavillion other models, click the link of the sculpture above.

It is a neo-classical exhibition complex and one of the landmarks of the city center. The exhibitions are The biggest park in Za- photographs of Rodins work by then-famous pho- greb. Great place to chill out, drink coee, eat lunch tographers. Photography is not permitted by order picnic or at the parks restaurant or take nice long of the Rodin museum in Paris despite the fact that walks through the forest or by the small lakes. Good Rodins work is now in the public domain. Of- 40 Kn, reduced 30 Kn, family 2 adults, 2 children fers lake rowing.

The year old zoo has red pan- Kn. It was e-mail: infocentar hnk. Croatian National The- opened in north of the city center. The mor- atre, Zagreb is located at the centre of Marshal Tito tuary, the impressive and picturesque arcades with Square. It is built in There are also Croatian the church of Christ the King architect H. Here stand the tombs of notable personalities including that of basketball 1 Moderna Galerija Modern Gallery , Hebran- hero Drazen Petrovic who are relevant to Croatian gova 1.

Comprises all relevant ne artists of the 19th history. To arrive from the central square, go to and 20th centuries. The ride takes umjetnost Lauba , Prilaz baruna Filipovia 23a. Presents works from of the Dead is on November 1st. You may nd the Filip Trade Collection, a large private collection the sight of hundreds of thousands of candles after of modern and contemporary Croatian art and cur- nightfall impressive and worth seeing, but you may rent artistic production.

Has a lot of technical inventions, re but crowded. The imposing mountain overlooking Zagreb Medvednica con- Street Architecture: tains a preserved fortress Medvedgrad and fasci- nating views of the city. Being respectful in the 1 The Grounded Sun Prizemljeno Sunce , Bogov- fort is a good idea, since it is the site of the Altar ieva Street 6 Head south from the Ban Jelai of the Homeland memorial, dedicated to Croatian square to the Dubrovnik hotel, then turn right into the soldiers who died in the Homeland war.

There are Bogovieva street. You can't miss it. Prizemljeno several historical festivals during the year, including sunce by Ivan Koari is a sculpture, a 2 me- knights tournaments. Tram 5 or Jarun Lake is a recreational area based A ticket will cost you HRK 2,,4 around a large lake where locals go to relax, ex- ercise - and party! The centerpiece of the area is About 30 HRK is the combined price of a medium the actual lake itself, which is used for windsurf- popcorn and cola.

A multiplex cinema 13 very busy during the weekends but are also nice for screens in the vicinity of the Sheraton Hotel. The a sunny lunchtime snack. All the bars there are con- website is in Croatian, but can be understood using sidered 'fancy' places and usually play commercial a Croatian-English online dictionary.

A multiplex cinema 9 screens in festivals, workshops, concerts and music festivals the vicinity of the Museum of Contemporary Art. Located in a large mall. Follows and presents contemporary trends in ne arts. Naivne Umjetnosti , Sv. Houses more than one thousand works belonging to Croat- Kino Europa, Varavska 3.

Strossmayerovo etalite. Strossmayers walkway In the summer, it is an outdoor scene for Kino Central, Petrinjska 4; within painters, musicians and other artists oering food, Croatia. Popular meet- ing place for all ages, with a great view of the Lower Kino Tukanac. Showing much more than just Town. Ladies Night Slalom : Za- 1. It is the most expensive race As of Heritage Foundation Matica Hrvatska oers compre- best skiers in mens competition are also expected hensive Croatian language courses for foreigners.

The to compete on Mount Sljeme that overlooks the city. All courses cost whole event on a giant screen in the Ban Jelai around More information can be found by visiting Square. EAT Many universities in Croatia accept a small group as in- Algoritam, Gajeva 1. FER Fakultet elektrotehnike i raunarstva, trans.

It is part of the University of Zagreb and accepts around ten inter- national students a year. For creative types, Croatia is occupied by some street per- formers and many stands selling jewelery or other hand- crafted products, so the populace has an open mind to Most are located in the city center main square - Ban Jelai and surrounding blocks. Sandwich prices around the city varies from 10 to 20 kuna.

You can also nd many kebabs There are many small grocery stores around Croatia such and pancake-to-go places. There you can buy most necessary foods, hygiene products and items like cigarettes and al- American Doughnut, Teslina St. A sandwich bar cohol. If you have a more specic need like appliances, that also serves salads and deserts. Trying a domestic Bonita, Flower Square.

Popular sandwich bar that alternative or knock-o is not a bad idea. Il- legally imported cigarettes are also often sold for cheap there because of high importation taxes. Jelaia 11 in the central squar. Very knowledgeable sta. Italian piadinas, Japanese teriyaki sticks, oriental wraps, Millennium, Radiceva 9 o Jelacic square.

Pot- Bubble tea from Taiwan and Japanese mochi cakes. Wonder- MOCA. Newly open at the main square serves great ful food made only from natural ingredients, many and cheap fried, deep fried and baked potatoes with sourced locally. Oers traditional, lite, diabetic, a large variety of dips for takeout. Excellent evapii and gula, not to mention superb beer. Mains: kuna. Manzoku, Gajeva St.

An excellent and so far only Japanese take-out in Zagreb. Tasty but rather ex- Oliva, Jarunska 5 located at the Jarun near the pensive. Mexican food. Good service, great food, on Mondays they oer live music by the best Croatian mariachi band, Los Caballeros starting at 9PM. Pizza Cut Duck, Nikole Tesle Classic sandwich Pivnica Medvedgrad, Samoborska cesta , bar with a wide menu and reasonably good mix of Boidara Adije 16, Tkalieva Great food languages.

One of the most popular dishes is the and beer for reasonable prices. Croatian restaurant with very nice food Has a nice terrance in the back garden. Close to tramstop 'Kvaternikov Trg'. Ar- Boban, Gajeva 9. Italian food. VegeHop, Vlaka Closed Sunday. Mexican irafa, Maksimirska cesta Cheap Mexican food food. Nice summer terrace. Daily A French restaurant within the Nice little restaurant with great service and , e-mail: royalindiazg gmail.

Serves wonderful food. If you are into French and Istrian authentic Indian Dishes. Asia, A. Tumana 1, Oreje 12PM. An old family-run restaurant on the old Samobor Caramba, Frankopanska 6. DRINK M- A very romantic little restaurant. Zagreb may not be synonymous with sushi restau- rants, but this is one is superb.

It is not cheap, but Booksa, Martieva 14d. A very popular place free Wi-Fi, delicious drinks, very reasonable prices, that oers Croatian cuisine, live music on weekends, great coee, DJ or live music on weekends. Cica, Tkalieva. Bar mostly known for its great and varied choice of the local schnappses rakija. The whole bar is small but oers outdoor seating. Down some stairs - look for the small sign. Pricey but a good place to get a healthy snack or fruit smoothie.

A pancake restaurant with sic night programmes in the basement mostly al- a wide range of crazy both sweet and salty lling ternative, dj-s, world music and spacial backpacker ideas. Very good atmosphere, lots of character, cheap and tasty Rakija shoots and excellent elec- tronic music: funky, electro, jazz, d'n'b, house, dub- The Cookie Factory, Tkalieva 21 Head north of step.

Head Golf, Preradovieva. Until 2AM. You'll notice it by the decorated outside KIC, Preradovieva. Oers free internet and cheap with funny drawings. Hosts a cinema with vari- - 10PM. Homebaked American Sweets. Cookies, ous alternative movies. Newly re-decorated old cin- coee, smoothies, cakes and pies. Hosts movies, festivals, music nights and Za- grebs hipster crowd. Oers a good choice of Vincek, Ilica.

Closed on Sundays.. The local, best local beer and food. Indoors smoking prohibited. Has a terrace facing Tkalieva street. Oers diet foods. Melin, Tkalieva. A cheap bar brimming with young people and students.

The best atmosphere restaurant in Tkalieva street. Known for crowds of people of- Zagreb with excellent food, unique menu, large por- ten drinking even around the bar, in the park and tions and great location!! Oliver Twist, Tkalieva. A choice of good Irish Big summer terrace in front. Cafe de Paris Medika, Pierottijeva Best Croatian beers for 10 HRK.

Attracts a mix of lo- Movara, Prisavlje. A local alternative club rock, cals and tourists. Sometimes hosts festivals, young indie talent concerts, movie nights, exhibi- Portal, Tkalieva. Next to Melin, oers same ser- tions etc. A great place to enjoy Purgeraj, Park Ribnjak. Oers mostly rock, jazz, rock and pop. Daily happy hour when you get two drinks for the price of one. Sometimes Sirup, Donje Svetice Interesting interior and at- hosts concerts.

Popular with student crowd esp on mosphere. Good electronic music. A bit expensive Thursdays when it hosts the newly popular take me entrance fees, but worth seeing. Largest club in Zagreb. The Jazz Club. Open daily. Jazz, blues, and funk Tolkiens House, Opatovina. A small fantasy bands, often from other countries. Oers a variety of beers, cider and hot drinks. Good concerts. Jazz and blues unusual and pretty much artistic apartment-hostel lovers should check it out.

Dorm bed: 15 kuna. Very good atmosphere, lots of char- acter, cheap and tasty Rakija shoots and excellent Buzz Hostel. Furnished with modern, ikea furni- electronic music: funky, electro, jazz, d'n'b, house, ture. Also a location in Split. Dorm bed: kuna. Cheap drinks info chillout-hostel-zagreb. Check-in: 2PM, opened on weekends, often concerts of alternative check-out: 11AM.

A brand new hostel in the city bands. Mostly visited on weekends, especially Fri- centre, free linen, free towels, free wi, h bar days. Admission fee: 25 Kn. KSET, Unska 3. A popular student club. Of- Dizzy Daisy Hostel Zagreb. Dorm bed: fers various indie and alternative programmes ev- kuna. Indoors smoking prohib- ited. Serves only beer and non alcoholic drinks. En- 1 Fulir Hostel Zagreb. Great place to meet people, but can be a concerts.. SLEEP Funk Lounge, Ivana Rendia 28b From main train Just by Mlinar bakery and hair 1 Arcotel Allegra, Branimirova 29 meters stylist is the entrance.

All rooms are spacious and air- from: A very cool touch are the free apples supplied in your room in a 1 Hobo Bear Hostel, Meduliceva 4. Check-in: very funky holder! A cozy hostel very near the town center. Hostel Carpe Diem, Milana Suaya 3. Dorm bed: 80 kuna. Hostel Mali Mrak Zagreb, Dubicka 8.

Dorm bed: Hotel As, Zelengaj 2A 2. Nokturno Hostel, Skalinska 2a. Free internet ac- 1 Hotel Central, Branimirova 3 meters from cess, free linens and towels. Logistic youth center, also works as Music Hall south of the main railway station - Glavni a regional information center. The Clean, centrally located, good most interesting part is the terrace with space for service. Some rooms are small. Located further from downtown, but the center has its own bus which runs as needed.

Hosts a cinema with various alternative movies. Newly re-decorated old cinema. Indoors smoking prohibited. A cheap bar brimming with young people and students. Known for crowds of people often drinking even around the bar, in the park and playground in front of it.

A choice of good Irish beer with a great atmosphere. Big summer terrace in front. Attracts a mix of locals and tourists. Daily happy hour when you get two drinks for the price of one. Sometimes hosts concerts. Best Croatian beers for 10 HRK. Sometimes hosts festivals, young indie talent concerts, movie nights, exhibitions etc. A great place to enjoy live music of a wide array of styles including blues, jazz, rock and pop.

Interesting interior and atmosphere. Good electronic music. A bit expensive entrance fees, but worth seeing. Largest club in Zagreb. Mainly dance style music. Open daily. Jazz, blues, and funk bands, often from other countries. Good concerts. Jazz and blues located just 10 minutes walking distance from the lovers should check it out.

Very good atmosphere, lots of character, cheap and tasty Rakija shoots and excellent electronic music: funky, electro, jazz, d'n'b, house, dubstep! Cult club for alternative, punk music. Cheap drinks opened on weekends, often concerts of alternative bands. Mostly visited on weekends, especially Fridays.

Admission fee: 25 Kn. A popular student club. Offers various indie and alternative programmes every night of the week. Serves only beer and non alcoholic drinks. Furnished with modern, ikea furniture. Also a location in Split. Dorm bed: kuna. Great place to meet people, but can be a wait to use the bathroom. Just by Mlinar bakery and hair from the central railway station Glavni kolodvor , stylist is the entrance.

All rooms are spacious and aircheck-out: until 11AM. Check-in: very funky holder! A cozy hostel very near the town center. Dorm bed: 80 kuna. Small and cozy hostel a bit out of the city center. Free internet access, free linens and towels. Dorm bed: kuna; Single: kuna. Logistic youth center, also works as a regional information center. From the host, you can get complete information about everything that interests you.

The most interesting part is the terrace with space for tents and 30 seats. Located further from downtown, but the center has its own bus which runs as needed. Parking for approximately 30 vehicles. Ravnice 38d. Clean, centrally located, good service.

Some rooms are small. Built in for passengers of the famous Orient Express train, which connected Paris and Istanbul. It is located some meters from the motorway on the main road that leads from Zagreb to Dugo Selo.

Features air-conditioned rooms and suites with classic furniture and marbled bathrooms. The hotel was renovated in Hotel Esplanade, Zagreb, Croatia Open M-Su It was built in the Secession style in and converted into a hotel in The Arts Pavilion is 50 metres away.

They charge 10kn 1. Wireless connection, Skype, cool juices and coffee are available. Open Mon-Sun This not only applies to strip clubs in Zagreb, but also all over Croatia. The chance of getting in trouble in Zagreb is fairly low, especially in the center where most of the hotels and restaurants are located, and for foreigners who are in general respected and welcome.

Visitors soon realize that Zagreb is way safer than the vast majority of other European capitals such as London, Paris, Vienna, Rome, Budapest, etc. Pickpocketing isn't a particularly common occurrence in Zagreb, but you might be approached by beggars and similar people on the street - ignore them and they will go away. Watch out for aggressive people like that one.

You may also try German or Italian, as both are popular for historical and cultural reasons. It is also advisable to learn a some basic Croatian words and phrases - because Zagreb can be a vibrant, busy city, a few basic molim please , hvala thanks or oprostite excuse me, pardon me, I'm sorry will go a long way to avoid being ignored by a busy local. Park Ribnjak, located very close to the city centre, is safe during daytime and worth visiting, especially for children.

However, it has recently become a night-time meeting These are not common but they do happen oc - These clubs are often featured in the local newspapers as violence erupts in them quite easily. Tues and Thurs: September- May and May - Mon-Thurs: ; Fri: In a triangular shape, it is bordered in the north by Slovenia, east by the Kvarner region of Croatia and on the south and west by the Adriatic Sea. Intermittent combats were held between both powers until the fall of Venice in Since that date, the Croatian population of Istria struggled for autonomy and were severely repressed both by Austrians and Fascist Italy after World War I , eventually ending with a revenge from Yugoslav partisans after the World War II, forcing most autochthonous ethnic Italians to leave.

A small ethnic Italian community still lives in the coastal towns. Relatively spared from the Yugoslav Wars, Istria is now a prosperous region. The Istrian coast is arguably the most developed tourist destination in Croatia. Hordes of Italian, German and French tourists enjoy package tourism during the crowded high season.

The cultural legacy of Istria is thus very rich and diverse. There is still an Italian ethnic community in many coastal towns. German is also very widely spoken. Buses run from Trieste in Italy, Zagreb and other major cities to Pazin in the centre of Istria, and most to Pula in Scandjet con- Kamenjak.

Unfortunately due to historical accident, the two train lines do not meet up despite some works having been commenced on a rail tunnel to link the two short distances. From May to October , Venezia Lines has carried more than Scampi is the favourite, together with squid and sole. In the inland, air-cured ham Prsut and sausages are the highlights. EAT 51 can be found accompanying any dish and sauce. It is served with white or yellow polenta, as a main course and in many Typical Istrian goodies other ways.

Selection and prepapesto. It is made manually, Due to the plentiful sunlight and the vicinity of the sea, according to traditional methods dating back more than vegetables, which are widely grown in Istria, have a very years. In the past also Koper had soltfealds. In Europe it was brought about in , produced mainly by the Mediterranean the obligatory olive oil and plenty of garlic.

These dishes are more commonly found khaki desserts pies, krostate, cakes, tarts and so on. These ancient trees, which originate in the MediterDespite some attempts to preserve and revive authen- ranean, can reach a respectable age. Olives were picked tic Istrian cuisine, there is a tendency in Koper towards from wild olive trees in prehistoric times. The oil produced was used every pocket. The Babyold days, has the most suitable ratio between saturated lonian code from BC includes regulations regarding and unsaturated fat.

It has a high percentage of oleic acid the olive oil trade. The Phoenicians and the Greeks even and a suitable quantity of essential fatty acids. In the fruits had special ships for transporting amphorae containing of the area, there are also sugars, cellulose, and minerals olive oil.

Bon able to grow. Roman society had olives on their menus — including the Tipical products from Istria imperial kitchen of Emperor Augustus. Cut into slices, this is a delicious, tional aromatic and medicinal properties, mostly due to healthy and natural snack without added sugar and preser- the special Mediterranean climate where they grow.

It grows at the edge of the forests of Slovenian Istria and it grows up to one meter high. It is born each year in the spring months from half of March to half of May. Lavender The lavender is one of the plants that you immediately associate with the Mediterranean. However, it can also be found in an ornamental garden.

Wines are sweet and fruity, with a wide variety of grapes present, such as white malvasia, red teran and muscat. The most famous vineyard area is Kalavojna, on the Eastern coast. Regional liquor grappa is widely produced in here, with several varieties available. Independent travellers can hire a bike or a little electric buggy. The safari park today consists of many animals donated by these visitors, including Sony and Lanka, two Indian elephants from Indira Gandhi.

Backcountry Authorized diving centre that organizes daily scuba dives and fun dives in Brijuni National Park and also gives PADI scuba diving courses. Kosmas and Damian Motovun Town centre Decumanus 2. The service is very friendly and helpful speaking English, Italian, German and Croatian! Worth visiting this town just to eat here. Prices are quite expensive for Croatia. For families with children and active holiday.

Self-catering apart- day to Zagreb, the capital of Croatia. You can buy your ment Sunshine Porec is located on the outskirts of tickets at the bus stations on the day of departure. Porec, a 1. Apartment consists of one bedroom, open-plan living room with fully equipped kitchen, bathroom and a balcony with beautiful views over Istrian countryside. There is a scheduled bus service from the bus station in town to the airport.

The cost of a one-way ticket is HRK A taxi from the bus station to the city should Zlatna vrata be around HRK85 in the low season and much higher in Pula Italian Pola, Slovene Pulj is a nice town at the tip the summer. The cost is HRK Romans occupied Istria in B.

After 6-Apr the destruction of Western Roman empire, Istrian peninsula was devastated by Ostrogoths. Slavs came in Istria during migration period in 7th century but mostly lived on At that time Pula was still inhabited mostly by Italians. Landlords in Pula changed quite frequently in The large and modern bus station is on the edge of the 'old middle ages from republic of Venice to Genoa to Illyrian town' district and is the hub of local, domestic and interProvinces to Austria—Hungary and many others.

After national bus routes. There are direct buses from Zagreb, second world war it has been part of Croatia. Although most of the population still consists of Croats there are lots of quite big minorities in Pula such There is also a train station near the waterfront with services serving Istria and into Slovenia due to historical as Serbs, Italians, Bosniaks and Slovenes.

Ticket prices, timetables May. These are pricey, though provide a quick journey and provide some great views. Forum For local transport you can use the Taxi Service which has gotten cheaper since January Search for Taxi Cammeo on every phonebook, or hail one of their vehicles down. Local, owner operated taxis are more expensive. Buses are known to be expensive 11kn per card, per person, per ride , however, if you plan on using the Pulapromet only, you should make yourself a BusCard.

The BusCard reduces drastically the price of the ride making it a 6kn per hour on the city lines lines 1 to 9. Also, up to 5 people can use the same BusCard at the same moment, for the same bus. Also, the money on the BusCard is forever, meaning you can save it for the next time you come to Pula without fearing money loss.

All buses have a luggage area. The service is charged separately from the ticket and it usually costs 7kn. The 6th largest surviving Roman amphitheatre. Towering over the nearby buildings this huge structure was barely saved from destruction several times during its life, mostly by various Venetians with plans to take it to Venice stone by stone as demonstration of the might of the Venetian empire. Many stones were taken to build houses and other structures around Pula, but fortunately this practice was stopped before the whole structure was destroyed.

Entry gives you access to wander the inside of the Colosseum and visit the caverns beneath. The audio tour is very worthwhile. The square is built on the site of the ancient Roman forum. Autochthonous Istrian wine sorts. A rakija with mistletoe. Excellent light and delicious slow food. Group of islands famous for their scenic beauty. They are a holiday resort and a Croatian National Park. They were also setlement in roman times and were part of Republic of Venice. There is also now famous Tito leader of former Yugoslavia residence.

You can take a walk through local marina and check out timetables and prices. Excellent food in a unique setting that combines elegance with history. The best pizza in town. Good quality pizza and grill. Near Arena, the Roman amphitheatre - very good pizza. A mexican restaurant. This peninsula is Some of those fortresses are Small, family-run, newly refurbished art hostel in the centre of Pula.

And youth camp. Not such a nice looking place, but it is situated some ten meters from the beach, so you can almost jump directly from your bedroom right into the sea. Never properly refurbished since then it is now showing its age, but structurally it is impressive and looks oh-so-grand from the outside. No doubt within a few years someone will make the investment to bring it back to its former glory.

Quite expensive for its facilities. Each of the apartments has a parking lot, and is equipped with air conditioner, SAT TV, and all other appliances that will make your stay pleasant. Attractive apartments in the proximity of the well known Brijuni Islands national park. A quiet place in a family house, built in Check-in: , check-out: The spacious swimming pool in situated in our award winning garden over m2.

Conveniently situated for bus, rail and ferry, just 12 minutes from the airport. Prices are around 2 HRK per hour the park-o-meters accept only coins. There are also buses from Central Pula. Departure in season every day at 5. Rovinj Italian: Rovigno is a city in Istria. Bicycle hire is quite inexpensive in Rovinj and there are very good cycle tracks up and down the coast. Worth seeing south. Many establishments close over the winter. Cycle Hire is relatively cheap for good quality bikes.

It was founded in by a group of artists from Rovinj with the intention of collecting and exhibiting works of art. Today it serves as a town gallery and as a place where its rich bank of works of art is permanently exhibited. Reasonable prices, excellent service.

Sit and watch everyone go by, located just away from the crowded seafront squares. Quiet, quirky restaurant specialising in seafood, pizzas and veal cooked in the peka - a slow-cooking method using live coals and a long-handled pan. You need to order two days in advance for this. Great restaurant with nice waiters, the food is excellent and the view is stunning. Make some fun with the waiters, they will start to like you and serve you better. The food is excellent and comes in good amounts. Fantastic location by the sea with atmospheric under sea lighting and seating on the rocks.

Unfortunately heavy sales pressure on arriving female customers to buy champagne, rude service and over priced chemical cocktails that havent seen fresh fruit. Nice guesthouse with very friendly personal. Clean, small rooms, single rooms available. A slightly longer journey could take you to Rijeka; Izola or Piran in Slovenia; or Trieste in Italy, all of which fall within the ancient boundaries of Istria.

There is a daily high-speed ferry during the warmer months to Venice from the harbour in Rovinj. The ferry takes about 2 hours and takes you to almost the centre of Venice. Umag has excellent road and air connections with all large towns in the world at only 50 nautical miles from the famous Venice!

It is located in an attractive bay with one of the most prestigious ACI marinas awarded the Blue Flag. Its natural beauties, the history and tradition of the old town of Umag and of the surrounding Istrian area, a warm Mediterranean climate with an abundance of sunshine during most months of the year and high quality hotels, campsites, apartments and bungalows make Umag an ideal vacation place for the whole family.

The history of Umag is exceptionally interesting: In ancient times it was discovered by Roman aristocracy who adopted it for their summer residence. The town has preserved parts of the town walls and defence towers, Renaissance and Baroque houses and churches, the most famous among them being the parish church of the Assumption of Virgin Mary and the church of St.

Umag is a widely known site of the international ATP tennis tournament, which has been successfully organized since It was built in 1st century BC and took its present form in 1st century when it could seat about 20, spectators. Of special interest are the impressive mosaics over the apse of precious stones and mother-ofpearl.

Antiquity and Early Middle Ages were completely destroyed. The present historical core has inherited the urban structure of the Middle Ages. The one that According to the Guinness Book of Records, with its 23 is best preserved is also the oldest one — the west tower inhabitants, Hum is the smallest town in the world. It is now housing the Museum of Umag, keeper of a valuable situated in the central part of Istria and famous for the collection of archaeological artefacts found on the site of Alley of the Glagolitic priests — a unique memorial to the the town of Umag.

Peregrine Not far from Umag, on the Rosazzo promontory there is It is a geo-morphological phenomenon with overgrown a small, very old Church of St. With the inhabitants of Umag to mark the spot where, during its narrow, 11 km long inlet it represents one of the most the Diocletian era. UMAG rise from the sea: These are the only remains of the an- The cape stretching far into Siparis existed here during the Roman era, a proof of this the open sea, where the green arches the clearness of being the foundations of villas and houses, mosaics, marthe sea and the sun warms the beaches hidden from ble, ceramic, urns and coins found in this location, all the rest of the world.

The remains of a pier measuring 30 metres in length and 6 metres wide are located in the sea near the villa, while the remains of an enormous construction can also be recognized, most likely a pool of another Roman villa. The resort is bathed in sun and crystalclear sea, with a long beach at the very promontory.

Entertainment, games, contests, cocktails, DJ music all day long, dancing till dawn in a new discotheque The tourist resort is located near the oldest lighthouse on the Adriatic Coast from , the history of which hides a tragic love story of Count Metternich of Austria. Campsite Park Umag is one of the largest Mediterranean campsites. Peaceful, intimate atmosphere and secluded bays, providing a real experience of nature. Modern campsite for families and individuals who enjoy active holidays and nature.

Elegance, details, style, relaxation Impressive natural surroundings and the interior provides the warmest Mediterranean atmosphere. Waking up with a view of the open sea and to the sound of waves. An unforgettable view of the whole town of Umag and its surroundings. The place where you can be yourself, sheltered from the rest of the world. Beautiful bar and best pizza in all of Istra. They deliver, and the locals partake in it often as well.

Enter the world of comfort, quality and style in Maistra hotels and resorts in two beautiful and colorful Mediterranean towns - Rovinj and Vrsar. It should not be confused with the nearby country of Slovenia. There is no public transport to the park, so take the local bus to Bilje and its a km walk. It is possible to reach Liberland by car as it is connected The piece of land on which Liberland is situated locally to Croatia by road. Please note that it was reported that known as Gornja Siga or just Siga is claimed by both roads are in bad condition, so it may not be possible to Croatia and Serbia the latter being much less aggressive reach Liberland by car — in which case, you will be in putting forth this claim , but according to other sources forced to continue by foot.

Bus connections between Osijek and Zmajevac are very infrequent, though — only twice a week. This is also believed to be the though you can still try getting in as the border isn't clearly safest method. To do so, you must follow the following obligations: - Contact LSA; The camp is located right before the Croatian weekday, from Dubrovnik every Thursday and from Split border.

Persons without a valid passport and medical insurance also won't be given assistance. If you are going to sleep in Liberland, bring a sleeping bag or tent. Contact Liberland settlement association for more information. There are reported to be border regime and unpermitted entry to the border zone. If you arrive on your own, bring your own drinks. Chapter 23 Osijek The Croatian Railways has information on train times and tickets. The railway station is being renovated and modernised.

There are daily connections with places in the city area. There are also daily connections to Bizovac spa. It is an important Some buildings still have bullet holes or shrapnel markings in them, though like the local economy, the town is mostly back to where it was in pre-war days. Osijek is the largest city and the economic and the cultural centre of the eastern Croatian region of Slavonia, as well as the administrative center of OsijekBaranja county.

Timetables, tickets and information are easily accessible. Panturist is the major bus operator out of Osijek and has listings of domestic and international bus travel - click on the vozni red icon. Central bus station is renovating and it will become the biggest one in south-eastern Europe. Bus companies Panturist, Polet, APP, Croatiatrans and many other smaller companies are daily connecting the city with all parts of the country.

This can be very useful to save back-tracking through to Zagreb once again, or the very mountainous and windy journey through Bosnia. Buses and taxis connect the airport with the city center and hotels. There is also a sec It is also used for Osijek is the major rail and road hub for all forms of exhibitions. There is now an international service by Germanwings to Cologne and other German cities. Egyptian Lotus Air is starting services in summer It connects Osijek with the A3 highway which runs from Zagreb to the Serbian border.

Driving to Osijek is easy with good signposting from all directions, and there is on-street as well as lot parking in the town. Peter and St. Paul do not run and are quite frequent. Buses are riding cca every minutes in tre. On the main Otherwise, it is fairly straightforward and well-designed square is also Archeological museum, and Music DO 77 school.

Fortress is also the place for a good night-life with numerous bars, discos and restaurants. Co-Cathedral is often place for big concerts of classical and religious music. Shows, concerts and opera are performed weekly. Part of the castle is owned by Little siters of St. Mary, and they will be delighted to show you the whole castle and around it. Do not be afraid of the dog in the yard, which is a pet of the nuns.

There are around 10 sisters in the convent, with few candidates. They are excellent place for a relaxing break after walking around the city. Michael is the second biggest church in the city, built in high baroque and royal style, by models from Vienna and Budapest. Priest lives right next door, and he will proudly take you inside the church, and explain everything about the past, style, and some interesting facts about the church.

On the square in the front of the church can be seen traces where was before over hundred years ago a Muslim mosque. The largest zoo park in Croatia, with lots of species of animals. Cross, situated in Tvrdja Fortress. Franciscan monks will be delighted to show you the beautiful church, with interior decorated in high baroque style. They can also take you to see the rich monastery library. Franciscans are very, very polite and they will help you if you have any questions, not only about the monastery, also about the city.

Company Konzum has shops and market centres all around the city, and it is really easy to notice them. And the best thing is, it is free. If you prefer closed swimming pools, there are also City pools, in the southern district of the city. Going out to eat in restaurants Discos and bars are open during the day and night. Antiquity shops and souvenirs shops are all around the city For example: Mango, Castello, S. Open , Sunday: Closed.

They also deliver. Brewery is producing not only beer, but also non-alcoholic drinks. In every bar is a big menu of beers, domestic and imported ones. Only for night-clubs The hotel is located on the river bank of the Drava river in the center of the city. Roka Good value for the price.

They provide much better value than spas closer to Zagreb or Varazdin, and see fewer tourists. The spa is easily accessible by train or bus. Reason is still visible discrimination of Serbian minority by the regional authorities. However, as time goes on, things are slowly going in a positive direction.

Banovci is one of the few places in Croatia that has retained its street names from the period of communist Yugoslavia. This was done at the express request of the villagers. For this reason, the name of the main street still bears the name of former Yugoslav President Josip Broz Tito, while other streets are named by prominent members of the anti-fascist movement during World War II.

The best time to visit is spring when climatic conditions are favorable. The doctor and mobile library Croatia , 10 miles south of the Danube River and near comes to Banovci once a week. Zip code of village is 32 the border with Serbia. Today most of the population are , mail order just in business days.

Serbian members of the Orthodox faith. A sizable German minority that lived in the village before World War II mostly moved to Austria at the end of the war. Here you still can experience the traditional lifestyle of the Serbian minority in Croatia which has been maintained despite the modern way of life. Through the international airport Nikola Tesla in Belgrade Serbia and continue with bus 2 hours , or through regional airport in Osijek Croatia and continue with bus 1 hour.

Banovci is on the railway line between Zagreb and Belgrade, and all local trains stop at the local railway In the rest part of year, villagers are organized around the station. Railways is on the occasion of the end of the school year, important the main route between Western Europe and the Middle religious holidays etc.

There are active and the football club, pensioners club, the Bus. Banovci is ten miles north of highway ZagrebWhat describes life in Banovci it might be described as Belgrade. Regional roads have been repaired and are in living on a human scale. People are extremely friendly good condition. Some local roads are not in the best conand hospitable.

Crime can be said not to exist in Banovci. You can visit nearby places on a bike. If you don't bring your own bike, you can always ask a local to lend one to you. He will probably give you a bike if you convince him of your good intentions. By foot. You can walk to two nearby villages that are within the 0.

The church was built in the nineteenth century and was recently restored. Best time to visit is for Sunday morning worship when the church will surely be open. There is an old mill, old local railway station, the old railway route and houses built in traditional Pannonian style.

You should try an alcoholic plum brandy called Rakija. Search for Balkan specialties such as pies, cheese, meat, potatoes, baklava, sarma. Its sister city Bosanski Brod lies on the south bank, over the State border in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Subotica Serbia and many cities in Bosnia. Buses are operated by Croatian bus companies and are reasonably reliable. The closest major airports are Zagreb and Belgrade.

Osijek airport approx. The Autocesta is a toll-road However, ambitious projects on either side of the road in Brod or before the toll booth. The ordinary fast train travels about 2 hours 30 minutes. However, there is an option of changing trains at Vinkovci. Locals swim in the river, but it is an imperative to remain cautious while being in the river, as this is a large and fast river.

Greatest caution is advised to people who have no experience with swimming in rivers. The beach was not used for many years during and after the war and is now being renovated. The fest lasts for two nights Friday and Saturday and gathers many biker clubs from Croatia, Bosnia and other European countries.

The line-up consists of one very popular Croatian rock band per night and a number of Croatian demo bands. The accompanying events include a mix of international activities such as mechanical bull riding with a feel of Slavonian village gathering tents with beer and food. The event takes place on Poloj, a beach on the Save river. The reason is a large number of students from Zagreb and Osijek and a large number of people who emigrated from city, who regularly return to city for holidays.

For instance, a glass of juice-vodka would cost approx. Clubs usually work to 3 am, when the crowds usually move to Rupa a rock club , Pivnica or Cezar. Other clubs are also available and their popularity varies. Slavonski Brod also hosts two large turbo folk clubs: Navalis and Cezar folk section. Vinkovci, Vukovar - twin cities north-east of Slavonski Brod.

Papuk - a hill 60 km nothwest of Slavonski Brod, a nature park and a popular recreational destination. The Siege of Vukovar is famous among military analysts as 2, self-organized Croatian civilians and volunteers from all around the Croatia defended the town for 3 months against 40, heavy armed Serbian soldiers and tanks, resulting in a pyrrhic Serbian victory. The city was defended up to the last street and therefore it was a modern model of a Stalingrad battle.

Those who remain in the city live together nonviolently, although there is still animosity between ethnic groups. The war damage is still very obvious throughout most of the city. By car: Highways lead to Vukovar from all directions. All the main areas of interest are within a short walk of each other. Hospital: The hospital in Vukovar is the same one used during the siege of the city.

The aboveground portion of the hospital has been restored into a typical modern facility, but the basement area which was the only part of the hospital used during the siege due to the continuous shelling of the above-ground parts of the hospital has been made into a museum. The museum is very well-designed and gives a chilling feel of what the hospital was like during the siege.

While you're in the By bus: The city has direct bus connections with Osijek Tank Graveyard Street: A location of one of a greatest approximately every hour , Zagreb numerous times a battles in Europe.

In the time of a siege Serbian army, day , Ilok and Vinkovci, and daily to Sombor and Novi equipped with tanks tried a breakthrough with tanks Sad in Vojvodina Serbia. There are also seasonal buses against a lightly armed Croatians led by national hero to the Dalmatian coast and cities in Germany. Blago Zadro, but it resulted in a greatest tank destruction By train: Infrequent trains operate to Vukovar from site ever, with tanks mostly being destroyed on many unOsijek and Vinkovci.

The station, Borovo-naselje, is conventional ways. Today, although rebuilt it still gives 84 BUY 85 an unexplaineable chilling feel of a battle, and one tank is left as a memorial. Aside from the war damage, the museum has various exhibits to see. Today at the massacre site there is a memorial and a nearby mu- Local cuisine tends to be very spicy due to extensive use of red paprika, so if you don't like hot food ask in restaurants seum. Cemetery: The cemetery has the graves of many who died during and after the siege.

There Christian cross facing outward in all directions. While are numerous cakes and pies indigenous for the region but walking among the graves, there are several interesting they can rarely be found in restaurants. People who died after November 18 were usually tortured to death.

There are also many graves where you can see that an entire family died on the same day. Filipa i Jakova: This is the main Catholic cathedral in the city. It was horribly damaged during the war. There have been slight reconstructions since the war Namely, a simple roof was added in order to keep out the rain.

The church also has a new organ. Serbs don't. As it is placed on a hill over the Vukovar centre it has a great lookout over the city and the Danube river. Try the local beer, Vukovarsko pivo. You may choose to visit Vukovar as a day trip and then sleep in a nearby city such as Osijek. The highway is modern, fast and safe.

Islands: Split and Dubrovnik have international airports and seaports. Explore Croatian islands, mountains and coastline. First travel agency specialized in activity travel. Bike and active travel. Rent a bike or take on of our self guided bike tours and travel Dalmatian coast on bike. Great hybrid, road and tandem bikes available. Krka National Park is the seventh national park in Croatia and was proclaimed a national park in Krka river Patches of reeds, lakes formed along part of the river and swamped meadows abound in amphibians and birds, while thickets and stone quarries are home to reptiles.

Out of season cars are allowed to descend down up to the parking lot near the Skradinski buk. For the archeological site of Burnum. NB: out of season The core of the park, Skradinski buk in particular, is easy there is no public transportation from Lozovac down to be explored on foot. Apr-Oct; Mar-Nov depends on weather. Returns are scheduled at 30 min. The last departure from Skradinski buk is 1.

Free — no ticket is required. The main entrance for tourist groups and individuals traveling by car. In season the park In the lower lake at the Skradinski buk. NB: Swimming only is allowed at this designated place. Considered the major attraction of the park. It is a pleasant cascade of lakes and waterfalls which is close to the both main entrances.

The monastery is a place of pilgrimage. Mo-Sa , , , , , , ; Su , , , , , , The location is very touristy. Large Water Fall, near Lower Lakes In the area fell to the Ottomans before being retaken by the Austrian Empire years later. In the communist government of Yugoslavia nationalized the lakes and made them a national park. At auto-camp Grabovac there was massacre of civilians three children by the Yugoslav Army in September of [1].

The lakes are separated by natural dams of travertine, which is deposited by the action of moss, algae and bacteria. The encrusted plants and bacteria accumulate on top of each other, forming travertine barriers which grow at the rate of about 1 cm per year. The lakes are renowned for their distinctive colours, ranging from azure to green, grey or blue.

The colours change constantly depending on the quantity of minerals or organisms in the water and the angle of sunlight. Rare fauna such as the European ing it from the list of endangered sites. However, the sur- brown bear, wolf, eagle, owl, lynx, wild cat and capercailrounding Plitvice municipality outside the park boundary lie can be found there, along with many more common still has some problems with mine contamination.

At least species of birds have been recorded there, of which 70 have been recorded as breeding there. Fish in Galovac Lake The area knows a mountainous land climate, with hot summers and cold winters. As there are few opportunities to buy refreshments in the park, visitors should bring plenty of water along for rehydration.

In the evening, occasional thunderstorms can unleash large amounts of rain in a short time, so make The Plitvice Lakes lie in a basin of karstic rock, mainly sure to keep an eye on the weather forecast to avoid bedolomite and limestone, which has given rise to their most ing surprised by heavy rain in the absence of shelter. Mukinje Ski Resort to operate from December to early March. Fog is common in the morning and can occur very locally, making driving up and down the often narrow roads in the park hazardous.

Ask the driver beforehand to make a stop at the either park entrances: 1 entrance 1 or 1 entrance 2. Also there is a direct bus connection to the Krka National Park. Keep in mind that buses in Croatia often do not run on time. They can come early or late, and either way they stop only long enough to pick up riders and then continue on their way. Especially in a place like Plitvice, which is quite a distance from other stops on a bus route.

So get to the bus stop early and plan on waiting for awhile. Paths, mostly made of wooden planks or gravel, will take you through the whole park. In most places they are wide, but since the park is extremely well visited they can feel very crowded during the day.

Take your time and enjoy it. As told elsewhere both buses and boats are free so it is possible to plan a walk zig-zagging up or down the lakes and the many waterfalls, and then not have to walk back the same way. It costs the same, takes an hour less and most probably they wouldn't charge for the extra baggage The bus service charges extra.

If If for example you are waiting for the Jezero Kozjak, a bigger lake close to the entrance 2. BUY Not recommended for children. Tip: If you arrive at the same time as a big group, walk The costs these buses and ferries are included into the one of the very well established routes in reverse. You'll entrance ticket. Special attractions at Plitvice include the Veliki Splat, a foot waterfall surrounded by nearby boulders to which tourists have access. There is also a large waterfall complex that can be access via a cave in the surrounding rock face.

Keep in mind that swimming is not allowed anywhere in the park. However, expect to climb a substantial fraction of your visit, and especially in the hot summer months this can quickly lead to dehydration. Few opportunities to buy drinks are available in the park, and the drinks sold at stands are expensive, so visitors are advised to bring the necessary water along with them into the park. Between 1 and 2 liter of water per person per day is advised. A hiking backpack is essential to comfortably carry water over long distances.

Rental service for wooden rowing boats, 60 kn per hour. Visitors can explore Kozjak lake and its numerous waterfalls from the water front. Fresh water snakes can often be found sunbathing on tree trunks along the water. Although it is possible to cross Kozjak lake, the boats must be returned to the pier where they are rented. A series of smaller lakes and waterfall cascades between Proscansko lake and Kozjak lake.

Numerous walking trails lead visitors around the lakes. The lakes can be reached from Entrance 2 by crossing There are good indications of walking trails in the park, so a map is not necessary. A series of lakes below Kozjak lake, carved out in a canyon. Walking trails lead visitors around and over the lakes.

The Lower Lakes can be reached from Entrance 1, or from Entrance 2 after traversing Kozjak lake by ferry, which is included in the admission fee of the park. The largest waterfall Veliki Slap can be found near Kaluderovac lake. A cave system between Gavanovac lake and Kaluderovac lake. Stairs are carved out into the rocks, allowing visitors to ascend up to the canyon ridges, or descend down to the hiking trails along the waterfront.

Primarily targeted at beginners, the lift is located in the center of the town. Ski equipment can be rented locally. Supermarket selling a variety of drinks, cooled and uncooled. Around 5 - 10 kn per bottle. A large picnic area can also be found near the ferry terminals. All restaurants are managed by the park authority, and the food quality they serve is low compared to the prices they typically charge.

Visitors are advised to bring their own food into the park if possible and of course, take the trash out as well! The neighboring villages offer better eating opportunities, but require a short walk from the park entrances. Water, water everywhere These largely cater to middle or high class European tourists. Expect to pay very high prices for the luxury of spending the night close to the park entrance.

A local specialty are pancakes, which are typically served In addition, visitors will have the chance to explore the with Nutella or ground walnuts. Prices between 15 and lifestyle of rural Croatia and meet with local inhabitants.

Most restaurants or konobas have them on their OpenStreetMap provides an overview of private guest menu in the desert or snack section. Midrange restaurant in the center of Mukinje, on a 15 minute walk from park entrance 2. Large selection of fresh pizzas for 60 - 90 kn. The largest pizza size is meant for 2 to 3 people. Indoor and outdoor seating available. A small guest house in the center of Mukinje, next to the skiing facilities and the only bistro of the town.

A bus connection leads to the entrances of the park.

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Toliko smo se ubili od hrane da nismo mogli disati — Bela nas nije gnjavila, spavala je pod stolom totalno crknuta od umora. Bilo je skroz zanimljivo, pogotovo dok nam je loptica pala u potok. A kolko je to visoko?

Do vrha nam je Junaci slavonske ravni idu prema Krndiji Usput sam slikao ogromna slova na kori stabala. Jeste li ih kad primijetili? Onako, iz zajebancije! Sad ponovi zamnom: Ja sam slobodan! Pasi, koji su slavili 15 godina rada. Koncert je bio dobar, iako se nije skupilo puno ljudi, a samim tim je i atmosfera bila nekako mlaka. Predgrupa su bili moji Podravci, Suho grlo nos iz Koprivnice.

Sudbina nije htjela da danas odemo tamo i to je tako! Eto tako, nekad si nekog odaberem i prckam, iako sam itekako svjestan koliko sam glupav, dosadan i naporan. Malo nas je nosilo zimsku obleku, a ja sam imao jedne tanke rukavice koje su me koliko-toliko spasile. Nije nam trebalo mnogo do vrha, no uspon zbog vremenskih prilika nije bio preugodan, kao ni silazak. Osvajanje atraktivnog Balinovca odmah je otpalo, te smo krenuli prema domu nakon kratkog slikanja na vrhu.

Vratili smo se preko Velike kose, gdje je tanku Deni umalo odnio vjetar. Ajde, bar je slika ispala super! Sam uspon na vrh bio je malko zeznut zbog mokrih stijena i jakog vjetra, no isplatilo se. Nema veze, sve je to pank! Ondje sam zatekao Hanzla kako napikava neke melodije na basu, a Kekec palicama suvenir s koncerta Gewapend beton udara po kantama od fasadne boje. Gospodin otac me pokupio autom kod Nacionalne biblioteke i odvezao na kolodvor, skupa sa stvarima koje mi je ponio.

Napredovao sam sigurno, prema planu. Pratio sam ga, a on me spazio i prokaskao iza brda. Ponudo sam ih i kikirikijem, no nisu bili zainteresirani. Bio sam ovdje prije dva i pol mjeseca s HPD Matica. Nakon toga sam se popeo se na Brajkov vrh m , odakle se vide Korita iz zanimljive perspektive. Uzeo Dobro ti jutro, predivna Istro!

Uspio sam zaspati uz pucketanje vatre, te se probudio dok je svitalo. Nije me bilo ni briga! Ubrzo sam izgubio markaciju i stazu. Krajolik je bio totalno nekako alpski, ali opet uz neku posebnost svojstvenu samo ovom kraju. Iskoristio sam priliku da se slikam u drvetu, te sam krenuo s obilaskom sela. Ovaj put sam u nepoznatom kraju. Nakon sat i pol muke zaustavio se jedan auto. Bili su to Ivan i Sandra iz Splita, nisam mogao vjerovati!

Dojmovi na kraju? Iako je Vida bila na rubu, bila je toliko uvjerena u svoje ozdravljenje da smo je svi bodrili, znani i neznani. Eh oh, ajmo redom! Drugo, rijetke su prilike kad se vidimo svi skupa. Ja sam samo stajao iza, gledao tu predstavu i potrgao se od smijeha. Bus je bio pun ljudi, a samnom je bio frend Tomislav s kojim sam davnih dana studirao. Naravno, kabanicu sam ostavio doma.

Na kraju se ispostavilo da ipak jesu, te su donijeli krivu odluku: umjesto da se vrate, nastavili su naprijed. Eto, ipak sranje na petak ! Mi Ajmo na Dinaru! Evo Jedan prirodni prolaz u stijeni Pogled s vrha Samograda Detalj iz penjanja kroz kuloar ovdje! Mali se smrznuo od straha, nije imao snage ni za psikne. Nakon avanture s poskokom krenuli smo kuloarom prema grebenu Dinare.

Nakon dva i pol sata uspona po kanjonu odmorili smo se na jednoj strmoj livadici. Drugo, smjestiti se na krevet. No, postignut cilj opravdao je sve Uspon kroz kuloar napore. Mogu umrijeti danas ili sutra. Ili jer su kreteni. Dobro je i rekla!

Nisam imao potrebu za odmorom, pa sam se uputio svom prvom cilju — vrhu Okrugljak m. Tko ide? Bilo je oko 14h. Imao sam vremena do zadnjeg vlaka u Kada sam u Pogled je predivan po bistrom vremenu — sada sam dolje nazirao Kupu. Umoran sam sjeo u vlak za Zagreb, koji je kasnio lijepih 40 minuta. Juri juri vlak preko Gorskog kotara, sve je prepuno mirisa od borova Vidjeti svijet! Bitno da je mooving! Putem je u busu izvedena sprdancija preko mikrofona u svezi incidenta Matice na Bijelim stijenama.

Skoro pa mi je bilo neugodno, al ajde. Neki ljudi zaista kao da nemaju minimum savjesti. Otvorio se predivan pogled na Velebit, Liku i Kuterevo u dolini. Spustili smo se s vrha za 45 minuta, a kaos je Pogled s Korenskog vrha na Velebit bio na strmom mokrom dijelu staze gdje je nekoliko ljudi palo. I tradicija rocka! Sir skup ko vrag, ali perfektan! Mi idemo na izlet! Vani tmurno ali nije padalo. Bilo je tek oko 9. Naime, Zvonom svijetu objavismo da na Skradski vrh stigosmo!

Slap je bio zbilja lijep, a podno njega nalazi se ogromni otvor u stijeni neka vrst spilje u kojem se nalazi mala trafostanica i izvor Zeleni vir. Mala divokoza U samoj spilji voda je lijepe zelene boje. Fakat mi nije jasno da nemaju neki grah od ak kn. Mi smo navukli svoje kabanice i krenuli u kanjon. Spilja je duga oko m, pa smo stavili naglavne lampe i krenuli unutra. Nakon sat vremena napornog uspona stigli smo taman na vlak u Zapravo me bilo strah da se jedna piva ne pretvori u desetak piva, pa da na kraju zaspem na posao.

Dakle totalna avantura! Dva lika obojica se zovu Luka , te cure Ana i Maja. Uz pjesme Kojota jurnuli smo prema Starigradu kod Paklenice, gdje Stap smo stigli oko pola deset ujutro. Zrak je odisao borovinom, a mi smo bili spremni za akciju. Do vrha nam je trebalo oko sat vremena. Smijali smo se i probali opet, uz nove strujne udare. Krenuli smo prema ogromnoj markantnoj stijena naziva Stapina.

Put kojim smo prolazili kroz Kamenu galeriju djelomice je osiguran sajlama, klinovima i ljestvama, no s tim nismo imali problema. Najgenijalniji grob koji sam vidio! Zajedno u Kristu — zajedno u bankrotu! Moj jedini put iskorak u slobodu. I to je to! Idealna prilika bila je petak, veliki koncert kultnih Misfits u Boogaloo. Kod ulaska unutra probali smo ubaciti pijanog Antona na popis, no bez uspjeha. Ujutro me probudila mama jer sam zaboravio navinuti budilicu — bilo je vrijeme za akciju!

A ovdje su gledale kroz prozor! Nastavili smo makadamom do vrha, trebalo nam je manje od sat i pl koliko je pisalo na markaciji. Na vrhu je planinarski dom bio otvoren, pa smo malko sjeli i popili pivce. Pri vrhu je u fazi gradnja nekakve kapelice — ne znam samo odakle im Gle me kak sam veliki! Svega desetak minuta od doma nalazi se gradina Belecgrad, tj.

Lipanj u Zagorju je zbilja zakon stvar! Tu su si negdar vile namakale noge. Dakle, mimo plana Okupljanje na Platku Za Jelenc! Ajde brzo na grah pa idemo! Bio sam skroz pregladni jer imali smo laganu, no dugotrajnu i ipak zamornu turu. Prva faza izlaska — nabavka pive. Ajme, zbilja jedan od najboljih koncerata u Boogaloo ikad! Daj odi v kuhinju!

Gdje i kako proslaviti? Svirao je neki bend Tommy gun, svidjeli su mi se, a imaju i vokalkinju. Svakih nekoliko koraka susretao sam ljude koje dugo nisam vidio pa je vrijeme proletjelo. Ekipa uglavnom starija, nikog mojih godina. Ali kakva ekipa! Onako, iz zajebancije. Motiva za fotkanje bilo je na svakom koraku, vrh je bio zbilja lijep! Ja i Robi bilo smo solo cijelo vrijeme, oboje smo brzo super hodali i lako se dogovarali za sve.

Cijena — kn! Besplatno je, samo uzmite! Bio sam skroz pregladan, a kak i ne bi nakon deset sati naporne ture! Nismo dugo ostajali budni. Uostalom, nisam imao pojma gdje je to, pa sam se veselio izletu u nepoznato. Kod lugarnice smo skrenuli na stazu koja se strmo uspinjala iznad kanjona. Nismo tu nikad bili, pa nismo imali pojma koji je zapravo Vidakov kuk. Pogled je oduzimao dah — mogao si samo okretati se na mjestu i zuriti u bilo koju stranu.

Nakon slikanja koje je potrajalo spustili smo se dolje i u prirodnom amfiteatru pod kukom napravili prehrambenu pauzu. Bilo je to pravo planinarenje, a stalno smo morali paziti gdje stajemo i gubitak koncentracije lako je mogao rezultirati kobnim padom. Cijeli lokalitet nalazi se iznad rijeke Sutjeske, gdje se Pored rijeke se nalazi veliki memorijalni spomenik, koji smo posjetili na kraju putovanja.

Hrvata nema, raselili se. Bile su predivne i stjenoviti vrhovi parali su nebo, a ti prizori podsjetili su me ne predivni lanjski pohod na Vranicu pored Fojnice. Ona je bila sretna jer joj je to izlika da si kupi novi, a mi smo slegnuli ramenima i krenuli dalje. Na vrhu je samo kup kamenja, bez ikakvog natpisa. Bili smo izmoreni i totalno znojni.

Okupali smo se svi osim Ane, koju sam probao raznim metodama nagovoriti da se baci u vodu. Nakon jela napunili smo boce ledenom izvorskom vodom i krenuli na uspon. Spremili smo se nakon desetak minuta odmora i krenuli strmim siparom s kojeg se stalno odronjavalo kamenje.

Napredovali smo polako, metar po metar. Veliki vitao m je osvojen! I tako smo prestali, te zapalili vatru da se ugrijemo i otjeramo komarce. Sutradan je osvanula tmurna subota. Bio je Vidovdan. Da smo imali kakvu kartu, ne bi pomogla. Planinarenje po takvom terenu u magli je opasna igra i povratak je bila jedina razumna opcija. Po dolasku u kamp bili smo skroz mokri jer smo hodali visokom mokrom travom.

Stoka ostaje stoka, bez obzira na nacionalnost. No, vremena je bilo malo. Usput smo na granici htjeli kupiti Spomenik na Sutjesci iz zajebancije CD sa srpskim budnicama, da budemo spremni ako opet naletimo na nekakav Vidovdanski skup. Ovog puta imao sam drugu priliku za osvajanje Triglava — dugo sam se veselio tome i sve je bilo spremno.

Osvajanje Triglava posljednjih godina postalo je gotovo cirkus i izgubilo je planinarski duh. U jednom trenutku sa stijene iznad nas palo je nekoliko kamenja, pogledali smo gore i ugledali — divokoze! Probudila me poruka jedne cure kojoj sam htio sutradan napisati ljubavno pismo, staviti ga u pivsku bocu, te zatim bocu zavitlati s vrha Triglava maloj u glavu. Ne samo mene — bilo nas je dosta mladih u grupi koji nikad nismo bili na Triglavu.

Da se zna, slike mi je ustupio portal Koprivnica. Ipak je na kraju bilo veselo, a koncert su spasili punkeri Kaje z glavom?! Majko mila, set lista isto kao i zadnjih pet godina. Pokupili smo se svi oko 4 ujutro i krenuli na kolodvor kako bi ulovili jutarnje vlakove. S obzirom da irsku muziku volimo svi, karte su odavno nabavljene i zaputili smo se na svirku.

Totalno ludilo od koncerta, a nakon svirke smo dugo bauljali pijani s ljudima iz bendova na afterpartyu i tovili ih svakakvim glupostima. Bilo je svega 40 ljudi na koncertu, al cure su odrapile preopako! Dodatni baksuz bili su pljuskovi koji supali nekoliko puta, da bi na kraju zasjalo sunce koje nam se s neba rugalo.

Uspon na Metlu bio je lagan, popeli smo se za manje od sat i pol. More nismo vidjeli zbog magle, a u tom trenu nije mi ni bilo stalo do pogleda. Krenuli smo lagano istim putem nazad. Onak, ok Oprostite ljudi, al ja ne znam kakvi su to suludi principi. Tu smo se svi morali nasmijati, i to gromoglasno. Sve spremno i spakirano!

Bilo je oko pola 6 ujutro, a kolodvor prepun turista, uglavnom mladih backpackera.. Bogme malo! Grebenski put, nakon Obzove, vodi dalje na vrh Brezovica, te na Veli vrh. Nema veze, znam kamo idem. Deni me Moj osorski apartman odvela autom to Valbiske udaljene 30km , gdje sam se trajektom prebacio na Cres.

Oni su se spremali na izlazak, a ja na spavanje. Most se nalazi upravo u Osoru, nedaleko mjesta gdje sam spavao. Ondje neki tip s ruksakom stoji i bulji u mene. Sutradan ujutro, dok su svi spavali, spakirao sam se i krenuo stopirati na autobusnoj stanici. Uspon je pomalo strm, no vidik je lijep. Popili smo Na parkingu kod kampa Na koncertnim distribucijama uvijek zabavno! Usput sam snimio i nekoliko partizanskih spomenika, koji se u Istri nalaze na svakom zavoju.

Odmah do bazena je autobusni kolodvor, pa mi je to odgovaralo. Osim toga, nije mi stao ni lokalni autobus pa sam skroz popizdio. Bivakiranje u gradu je sranje nad sranjem, pogotovo gradu punom turista. Dok smo pristali u luku Sobra na Mljetu spustio se mrak, a lokalni bus me odveo do Babinog Polja, mjesta usred Mljeta udaljenog od Sobre desetak km.

Poznato vam je to, zar ne? Vrh Mljeta Velji grad m. Cijel putem hodao sam u hladu jer sunce nije bilo visoko, a i bio sam u sjeni jer staza se uspinje zapadnom stranom brda. Hodao sam gotovo sat i pol s noge na nogu, kadli napokon skretanje za Trpanj! Pazio sam na zmije, jer drugo ima ove planina je Zmijska planina Mons Vipera.

Vrh Sv. Sa Sv. Drugo, htio sam vidjeti zalazak sunca. Samo naprijed! Do Lastova sam se vozio gotovo dva sata. Lastovo je najudaljeniji hrvatski naseljeni otok. Sozanj je laganica od vrha, bio sam gore za ak minuta, ali zbilja je predivan vidikovac! Nakon fotkanja krenuo sam cestom prema spomenutom vrhu Hom. Jure iz Nekako sam zaspao, a u 4 ujutro sam imao katamaran za Split. Ma bravo majstore, ajmo nazad u Osam dana u Crnoj Gori i svaki dan neka akcija!

Stali smo i na brani hidroelektrane iz Hodali smo predivnim durmitorskim obroncima do pastirskih katuna na Lokvicama. Kako se te kapi zamrzavaju, tako nastaju ledene skulpture. Odakle voda sa stropa? Pristao sam za pivo, legao na stijenu uz obalu i uronio ruku do lakta u predivnu zelenu vodu.

Pogled s Bobotovog kuka na stjenovitu divljinu crnogorskih planina Ustali smo u svitanje, te krenuli autobusom do prijevoja na m. Imali smo Prije samog Bobotovog kuka nekoliko napornih dana i trebao nam je dan odmora, koji se ispostavio kao jedna tura koja nas je ipak iscrpila. Kakva je to muzika, kao da netko baca pribor za jelo niz stepenice! Drugo mjesto je most na Tari — remek djelo crnogorske arhitekture.

Kod nas u hrvatskoj na svakom brdu ima nekoliko kapelica ili crkvica! Metalna kutija bila je prazna — tj. Smatrao sam taj potez skroz normalnim. Lik nas je iskrcao pred lokalnim bircem u kojem smo srknuli pivce. Upravo s te staze ujutro smo vidjeli nekoliko kozoroga, koji su nas oprezno iz daljeine promatrali.

Neke smo stigli i fotkati, a nakon fotkanja uslijedilo pripremanje opreme za penjanje. Nije bilo lako, no naposljetku evo nas i na Skuti m. Gore je bilo nekoliko ljudi, a mi smo namjeravali napraviti pauzu od sat vremena i jesti uz predivne poglede an sve strane. Na vrh su stigle dvije zanimljive osobe kako kome , otac sa sinom od desetak godina. Nakon napornog uspona Mi ljudi smo na planini samo nebitni detalji Jednostavno nikako da stignemo, a onda evo ga!

Totalno iscrpljeni legli smo u krevete. Puhao je prohladni vjetar, a oblaci su u Na vrhu - Vjeko, Luka i ja jednom ternutku sakrili sunce. Naporni silazak iscijedio nas je do kraja. Dirnuo se u sve nas! Tko se dirne u Anu, dirnuo se u sve nas!

Kako god, na bini i izvan nje je totalna pojava! Prvi je bio potraga za planinarskim domom Risova jazbina. Ko zna —zna! E, pa tako ni ja druge ljude ne smatram smetnjom! Ovakvi ljudi me zaista inspiriraju!

Zamamni mirisi lokalne kuhinje toliko su nas izbezumili da smo opet morali napraviti pauzu za jelo, a zatim smo se razdvojili. Jakoba u blizini koje se nalazi izvor ljekovite vode. Bili su to zbilja ludi koncerti koji su znali okupiti pankere iz cijele sjeverne Hrvatske. Dom je bio zatvoren, a neki izletnici sjedili su na klupama.

Dugo sam vagao da li da odem na ovaj pohod ili da ostanem doma radi da atraktivna konceta. Najeli se, napili se, postalo je hladno i odosmo u krpe. Nas nekoliko popelo se gore, slikalo i vratilo dolje. Bome, nakon cijelog dana vukli smo se kao kolona ranjenika. Bravo ja! Dok smo zadnji put Svi su se tukli za mikrofon, jer Mi nemamo sluha nemamo ni pameti! I tako od koncerta do koncerta! Jedini problem bio je jak vjetar koji je u naletima zbilja mogao donijeti Kameni monolit "marsovac" nekog laganijeg.

No, kada smo nastavili dalje nismo imali problema. Bili su plahi, a ogromni poput medvjeda! Zadnji Planinarski dom u banijskom stilu nastup imali su prije godinu dana pod imenom Billie Dove, no izmijenili su ime i postavu benda. Za popizdit kak ima neodgovornih ljudi! Na samom vrhu nalazi se jezero i veliki spomenik palim partizanima-planianrima. Tako smo svi bili zakinuti za posjet vrhu, a ja i za duhovno iskustvo pri razgledu spomenika palim borcima. Krenuli smo iz Crnog luga gdje se nalazi uprava nacionalnog parka Risnjak.

Uglavnom, krenuli smo lagano Horvatovom stazom do Schlosserovog doma podno vrha tri sata hoda. Oh, kako je lijepo dok se ljudi precjene!

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